Eleven Madison Park Is Making A Major Change To Its Menu (Again)

In a stunning reversal, Daniel Humm, the chef behind Eleven Madison Park, an upscale eatery in New York City (where you definitely need to know how to hold your glassware), announced that the restaurant — which went fully vegan in 2021 — would start serving "select animal products for certain dishes" beginning on October 14 (per Instagram). The restaurant, which currently holds three Michelin stars, was praised for its plant-based takes on classics like eggless meringue and butter-less mille-feuille. This fall, however, its menu plans to introduce fish and certain meats, such as duck.

Naturally, condemnation for this act was swift, with commenters on the post accusing Humm of hypocrisy. "You sold the 100% plant-based shift as an ethical revolution and a vision for the future, took all the glory and press ... and now, just like that, you're back to serving meat and fish," one response reads. Another criticized Humm for betraying veganism for profit.

While chef Daniel Humm didn't directly state that money issues prompted the change, he did suggest that he didn't want to exclude anyone from dining at the restaurant. It's worth mentioning that, like many restaurants, Eleven Madison Park struggled in the wake of the pandemic, remaining closed for over a year.

The meatless menu wasn't the only issue causing trouble for Eleven Madison Park, which is known for its tasting menu of seven to nine dishes for up to $365. However, it did contribute to lower wine sales, perhaps because it removed the familiar pairing options of heavy red wines with steak and white wines with fish, such as salmon.

"As a chef I want to continue to open paths, not close them," Humm wrote in a statement on Eleven Madison Park's website. The news will undoubtedly disappoint some diners, but it's sparking anticipation among those who can't wait to taste the restaurant's signature honey-lavender-glazed duck again when it returns to the menu in October.