The Vintage Canned Pork Product No One Buys Anymore (And Why)
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Axl Rose once sang, "Nothin' lasts forever, and we both know hearts can change." While there's a decent chance he wasn't explicitly singing about shifting food trends, we think the sentiment applies just as well to that subject as it does to fading love. One such example of how the hearts of Americans have changed comes from a specific, once-popular vintage canned food that has since fallen into obscurity: pork brains.
That's right — unbeknownst to many, pork brains have long been a part of American cuisine. The late 1800s saw a slew of recipes for cooking the organ, even repurposing brain leftovers the next day. One of the most common dishes that used this ingredient during the early to mid-20th century was scrambled brains 'n' eggs. While the dish originated with farmers, it became popular enough that multiple companies rose to prominence canning pork brains in milk, a technique used to remove the blood. Even Salvador Dalí's surreal avocado toast recipe included brains (though he used poached lamb brains).
However, since the 1950s, pork brains have declined in popularity due to several nutrition-related factors. Despite being a good source of healthy fat and vitamin B12, pork brains are also extremely high in cholesterol, with a three-ounce portion of canned pork brains in milk clocking in at over 1,000% of the recommended daily cholesterol intake. This decline was further compounded in the late 2000s when a neurological disease was linked to inhaling aerosolized pig brain tissue among workers in pork processing plants.
You can still try pork brain today
The post–World War II economic boom also made high-quality meats like steak more accessible to everyday consumers, reducing the demand for nose-to-tail dining practices. Still, brains hold a place — albeit a tenuous one — in American food culture.
Fried brain sandwiches are a longstanding Midwest tradition, originating in Illinois and spreading to St. Louis and Indiana, where they can still be found today. Rose brand canned pork brains in milk gravy are still available in some Southern grocery stores and can even be bought on Amazon. The mad cow disease scare effectively ended the cow brain trade in the U.S., but pork brains are still hanging on by a thread — or a stem?
While pork brains are unlikely to show up on lists of unexpected additions to improve scrambled eggs, thanks to the relatively newfound squeamishness around the ingredient, those curious about scrambled brains 'n' eggs can try making it at home. Take a can of pork brains, season the offal with salt, pepper, and your favorite spices, then pan-fry before adding eggs. You won't get the crunch that comes with using bacon, but you'll end up with a rich, fluffy yet firm, deeply savory dish.