Here's Why Anthony Bourdain Had Beef With Tenderloin

Anthony Bourdain — chef, author, television host, and champion of cuisines he considered under-appreciated in the U.S. — was beloved not just for his opinions on food, but for his ability to eloquently explain why, exactly, he held his stances. For instance, Bourdain was an advocate for easy frozen appetizers, such as pigs in a blanket, considering them great, accessible party foods. On the other end of the spectrum, however, he wasn't a huge fan of one generally pricey cut of meat: beef tenderloin.

In an interview with Insider Tech (via YouTube), the late chef was quick to clarify that beef tenderloin has much to offer. As its name suggests, it's exceptionally tender because it's sourced from a part of the cow that doesn't get much movement. Additionally, one could argue its high price is understandable, given the small amount available on each animal.

So what was Bourdain's issue with it? "Most people who deal with meat on a daily basis find [the tenderloin] to be, in fact, the most boring and uninteresting piece of meat," he stated. Part of his disdain likely has to do with the tenderloin's lack of marbling — aka all the delicious fat woven throughout a piece of meat that imbues it with richness and flavor. Some folks see that as a boon; the tenderloin is easy to pair with a variety of ingredients since its profile is so lean and mild. For a chef like Bourdain, who appreciated a wide gamut of bold and global cuisines, it makes sense he would find such a timid cut a bit lackluster.

If beef tenderloin was on Anthony Bourdain's "no thank you" list, which cuts did he gravitate toward instead? In the same interview, he singled out entrecôte (a French term for a boneless rib cut), rib steak (the cut from the rib section, sometimes bone-in), and côte de boeuf (the French term for the thick, bone-in version, also known as a bone-in ribeye) as all being "optimal" and "perfect [mixes] of fat and lean."

To get the most out of these cuts, don't be afraid to embrace the high-heat treatment. Unlike the leaner tenderloin, which is often seared quickly and finished in the oven (such as in a beef Wellington recipe, where it's also wrapped in fat and pastry), Bourdain's preferred cuts all feature lots of marbling. When rendered properly, that's what keeps them plenty juicy and succulent. The idea is to strategically use high temps to initiate the Maillard reaction, letting the heat simultaneously break down the fat and create ultra-flavorful crusts (yes, you caught us ... we're drooling).

Bourdain's three chosen cuts are so robustly flavored that they shine perfectly on their own with just coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper. Still, for the best results when serving, always slice your meat against the grain. If you're making côte de boeuf, make sure to include the bone in the final presentation. Enjoy!