For The Best Flavor, David Chang Says Burgers Should Never Touch A Grill
It's a hot summer day and you're thinking of making some basic burgers — chances are good you're planning to fire up your grill to cook those bad boys, right? Not if you're Momofuku owner David Chang. On a recent episode of his podcast "The Dave Chang Show," Chang declared himself to be a staunch non-believer in the idea of grilling burgers.
Speaking with co-host Chris Ying and guest Euno Lee, Chang explained his opinion with a few lines of argument: Firstly, grilling isn't great for flavorful burgers. He says, "This whole idea of imparting flavor from the grill, the only flavor that's being imparted is the carbonized crap that's on the grill. The stuff that hasn't been scraped off from the iron brush [or] steel wool."
Chang goes on to (perhaps jokingly) call the idea of grilling burgers a "marketing lie," and follows it up with, "You would need to cook a burger over charcoal for 12 hours to get that smoky flavor." Chang instead advocates for taking those burgers back inside to cook them on the stovetop.
How does Chang cook his burgers, then?
He states, "You know what's good? A griddle burger's just as good or better. I don't think I've ever had a transcendent backyard grill burger experience." But why is that?
There's some evidence to back Chang up here: Documentarian and noted burger expert George Motz has recommended cast-iron pans and griddles in place of the grill. This is because the beef fat pools around the burgers and infuses them with more flavor — while also helping keep the burgers juicy. In contrast, on a grill, the fat drips away through the grate. This may be another downside to grilling: Flare-ups can occur as the fat fuels the grill's flames.
In line with this, Chang (on the podcast) is particularly enthusiastic about smash burgers cooked on a stovetop, as that retention of beef fat will also enhance the Maillard reaction for even more flavor. But of course, there may be a time and a place for the grill. For example, if you're doing a large cookout, a grill will generally allow you to cook more patties at once — unless you have multiple griddles or pans on hand. Plus, you won't need to worry about ventilation since you'll be cooking outside.
What Chang thinks you should grill instead
To be fair, Chang is aware that his anti-grill stance could be controversial, noting that it's an opinion that "could get [him] in trouble" on his show. He's also not anti-grill, offering up a short list of things that he believes grill well.
"I think grilling is only meant for hunks of meat and corn," shouting out steaks, marinated meats, and kebabs as options he believes to be eminently grillable. Most vegetables (at least in Chang's view) are not, though — although for a different reason than burgers. "Vegetables are terrible on the grill. They just are because they always fall through the cracks." We have to disagree: There are plenty of vegetables that can stand up to the char of your grill.
Chang's anti-grilling views aren't his only notable opinions about burgers: Back in 2015, he published a full "Burger Manifesto," outlining exactly what he thinks should and shouldn't be on burgers. Pickles, ketchup, and iceberg lettuce are all acceptable (but no other type of leafy greens); ditto for cheese — but only American cheese. However, tomato, onion, mustard, and squishy buns like brioche are all no-nos for the famed chef. Chang may have some strong opinions about what makes a good burger, but at the end of the day, there's nothing wrong with an innovative burger that makes you happy.