This Retro, 1950s Cake Features A Little Something For Everyone

From old-school party appetizers to forgotten cookies and once-beloved chicken casseroles, there are a number of retro foods out there that are worth bringing back to the table. However, there's one retro baked good that you may not have heard of or seen if you're not from Chicago: atomic cake.

Whether your ideal dessert consists of fresh fruit, creamy custard, moist cake, or rich chocolate, atomic cake has you covered with its layers of sweet goodness. It starts with a base of banana cake topped with either vanilla or banana custard and fresh slices of banana. Then another layer is built over the bananas and custard with yellow cake, fresh glazed strawberries, and whipped cream. Next, the top layer features chocolate cake and fudge. Finally, the entire cake is iced with whipped cream. Once assembled, the various layers and ingredients make for a colorful and dramatic presentation when sliced. As with any dish, makers of the cake may put their own unique twist on it, from using different icing (some opt for buttercream) to changing up the cake flavors or incorporating whipped cream into more layers.

The creation of atomic cake is largely attributed to George Kremm. However, two different bakeries — Calumet and Liberty — have vied for the title of originator, since Kremm reportedly conceived the idea for the cake while working at the former bakery but actually sold it at the latter, which he owned.

The history and local varieties of Chicago's atomic cake

It's believed that atomic cake received its name because it was created during the country's Atomic Age, but it's also speculated that it may have been a nod to the fact that Chicago was home to the location where the nation's first nuclear reactor was built. Regardless, the dessert can be found in various bakeries under different monikers, including bomb cake, rainbow cake, and banana split torte (specifically at Weber's Bakery).

If you want to try Atomic Cake, be prepared to go all in or share it with a few friends, since it's typically sold whole rather than by the slice. However, some bakeries have also used the original cake to inspire other treats like parfaits, donuts, cupcakes, and paczki, making it a little more accessible for solo snackers. Plus, pastry chef Carla Henriques has leveled up the dessert at Hawksmoor, a steakhouse in River North. Her creative take comes in sundae form, with the three cake flavors layered in a glass with roasted banana ice cream, custard, bananas, and whipped cream. In place of fresh strawberries, strawberry jam is used, and the ganache-style layer atop the chocolate cake is swapped out for fudge sauce.

Visitors to Chicago hoping to taste the original may not be able to pop into Liberty, since it is no longer in operation, but Calumet remains open. Other options include Astoria Café & Bakery, Weber's, Wolf's, and Orland Park, among others.

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