This Retro Steakhouse Side Is Older Than The Civil War
A single restaurant can change culinary history — a remarkable influence witnessed in Manhattan's Delmonico's restaurant. This historic institution first opened its doors in 1837 and is credited with establishing fine dining in the U.S. The prominent kitchen invented dishes like baked Alaska, lobster Newburg, eggs Benedict, and Delmonico potatoes.
This casserole-like spud dish is traditionally served alongside the eponymous Delmonico steak, a once-popular beef cut the restaurant also put on the map. Yet the food's role as an accompaniment underplays its own storied history. The mixture of grated potatoes, dairy, and spice appeared on the oldest available Delmonico's menu, which dates to 1838. Over subsequent decades, the restaurant welcomed many famed guests — it's reported even Abraham Lincoln took a liking to the potatoes while dining at Delmonico's amidst the Civil War. The starchy side propped up American fine dining during a formative historical era.
@liascenna bringing this to our little 4th of July gathering tomorrow 🎆 It's always a hit! Perfect to reheat for breakfast too! 😋 let me know if you try it!! #sidedish #momsoftiktok #cookingmom #familyrecipe #delmonicopotatoes #delish
Delmonico potatoes evolved out of French-style potatoes fricassée, adapting the template of small-cut potatoes cooked in a sauce into a version unique to the restaurant. The original rendition mixes boiled and grated potatoes with a dairy-heavy blend of milk, whipping cream, and parmesan, all seasoned with white pepper and nutmeg. The potato-sauce mixture is first reduced on a stovetop, then the entire dish is baked, crafting a decadent starchy composition with a layer of mouth-watering cheese crust on top.
Delmonico potatoes evolved into a wide array of recipes
The recipe for Delmonico potatoes remained in the restaurant for much of the 19th century. Yet into the 20th century, the dish broke through into wider American culinary culture, with many unique twists incorporated into the build. Some shaped the flavor palate with new aromatics, adding herbs like parsley, spices like dry mustard and paprika, or chopped peppers into the mix — a version reportedly served on United Airlines flights in the 1950s.
The dairy elements also shift depending on taste and ingredient availability. Some Delmonico potato versions swap the parmesan for sharp cheddar or use mixtures of sour cream, processed cheese, and milk. Many home cooks also trade time-consuming home-prepped potatoes for store-bought shredded hash browns, taking the dish into Midwest hot dish territory. Occasional renditions even employ rice instead of potatoes, further altering the food's texture. Yet no matter the combination of ingredients, the dish assembles in a casserole pan, making Delmonico potatoes a great option for a crowd. Whatever rendition you choose to whip up, know that you're biting into nearly two centuries of American culinary history.