NYC Locals Say This Old-School Pizzeria Still Gets A Classic Slice Right
Pizza is one of Americans' favorite foods, and you'll find many different versions across the U.S. of the basic pizza formula of crust, tomato sauce, and mozzarella. Arguably, the most celebrated is the New York style pizza with its classic thin-crust cheesy slices. Trendy, modern pizza spots in New York City today, however, often serve Naples-style pizza with pizzaioli straight from Italy or fancier gourmet toppings. Going to an old-school pizzeria can be the best bet for getting a traditional New York slice, and one that locals say does it right is Tommy's Pizza in the Bronx.
Tommy's Pizza has been serving up pies and slices since Sicilian immigrant Gaetano "Tommy" LoBue opened it in 1977. It sells only regular round pizza and rectangular, thick Sicilian — another New York standby — with the classic touch of dusting the bottom with semolina. The tiny grains help keep it from sticking to the wood peel or the oven. The most Tommy's may stray from the traditional is offering chicken and bacon among its toppings, along with usual ones, like pepperoni, mushroom, sausage, and anchovies. Calzones, chicken parm rolls, and beef patties, are also on the menu, along with hippy rolls, calzone-like rolls with sausage, onions, and peppers.
The small, cash-only shop has a vintage New York look as well. There are round, red-topped stools at the counter, and a small dining area in the back with wood paneling, photos on the wall, and sports trophies displayed. A 7UP sign even shares the space over the door outside with the Tommy's Pizza sign.
New York pizza's signature traits Tommy's Pizza gets right
Not only do locals love Tommy's Pizza, but it also got the seal of approval from Barstool Sports' Dave Portnoy in one of his "One Bite Pizza" reviews. Portnoy praised the crispy, non-floppy crust and what he called its excellent taste. He awarded it an 8.6, which he said was "super-high" and an "immediate Hall of Fame" score.
The New York-style pizza that Tommy's does so well has several signature characteristics. The thin crust is sturdier than the Neapolitan version brought over by Italian immigrants, so it doesn't flop at the end and it's more portable. The crust is crisp, but not so much that it cracks when you do the lengthwise New York fold, with a border that's slightly elevated, but not too puffy. It's also a bit chewy and gets its famous flavor from two ingredients, with some people even believing the New York water plays a role.
The tomato sauce is cooked and has some sweetness, which can be boosted with a little sugar, and herb flavor from oregano and/or basil. It also has to have a medium thickness that can spread on the dough, but won't make it soggy. Finally, the best mozzarella for the pizza is the low-moisture processed type instead of fresh, which has too much liquid. The mozzarella is shredded, so it blends with the tomato sauce for a cheesy pull when it melts instead of creating a covering layer.