Why You Should Think Twice Before Ordering This Fish At A Seafood Restaurant

Ordering fish in a restaurant can be complicated, particularly when you want to consider environmental sustainability as well as your health. Should you order farm-raised or wild? Freshwater or saltwater? Local or imported? The answers depend on a lot of factors. But Maricel Gentile, chef/owner, Maricel's Kitchen, and author of "Maricel's Simply Asian Cookbook," can make it simpler for you: Don't order the swordfish. The Central New Jersey-based chef, who offers cooking classes, chef's table dinners, and catering, told Food Republic exclusively, "The problem is not with taste, but with health and sustainability."

The primary reason Gentile avoids swordfish is its tendency to be high in mercury. Next to tilefish from the Gulf of Mexico, swordfish has the second highest level of mercury among the fish and shellfish measured by the U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA). In fact, with tilefish, shark, and king mackerel, it is one of four types of fish the FDA advises pregnant women and young children to avoid. Another issue with swordfish, Gentile says, is that it is often overfished. This was a large problem in the North Atlantic in the past. Fortunately, with a "Give Swordfish a Break Campaign," stocks have largely been replenished. There is, however, still a call to manage the swordfish population on a month-to-month basis. And in some parts of the world, like the Central Mediterranean, they are scarce. "Fresh, responsibly sourced swordfish can be delicious, but it is not something I personally recommend eating frequently," Gentile says. Anthony Bourdain was also adamant in his refusal to eat swordfish, noting its potential for becoming infested with parasitic worms.

If you're looking for a fish with the firm, meaty texture of swordfish, Maricel Gentile recommends mahi mahi, grouper (which also an affordable alternative to salmon), and sustainably farmed arctic char. "These fish," she says, "hold up well to grilling or pan-searing, offer that same satisfying bite, and come without the same level of mercury concern."

Given that you are usually unable to touch and smell fish for yourself in restaurants, Gentile recommends asking the server where the fish was sourced, whether or not it is local, and if it is in season. "A good restaurant will proudly share that information," she adds. "If the restaurant offers a catch of the day or highlights seasonal specials, that is usually a strong sign they are serving fish at its peak quality." She also suggests noting the taste and texture when it arrives. Fresh fish should not taste or smell "fishy" but should instead be moist, flavorful, and clean-tasting. Or follow an axiom the chef always goes by: "The best fish is the one that is fresh and local."