This recipe is part of Crispianity: a column devoted to all foods crispy and crunchy, two of the most underappreciated attributes of a great dish. Author Adeena Sussman is a food writer and recipe developer, pairing here with her friend, photographer Evan Sung. Sussman’s most recent cookbook, co-authored with Lee Brian Schrager, is Fried and True: More Than 50 Recipes for America’s Best Fried Chicken and Sides.

Deeply crispy, crunchy snacks are a vice I’m simply unwilling to resist, and I like to make them myself whenever possible. That’s why I’m currently obsessed with this recipe for sweet-salty, crispy-crunchy crackers updated from of a Sussman family classic, tzibbeleh kuchen (onion cookies). It’s passed down from my late grandmother, who often had a plate of them on the kitchen table at her house in Queens, NY. Hers hewed to tradition: soft, yeast-risen and savory all the way, puffy little rounds that tasted like the love-child result of a steamy affair between a bialy and a focaccia. I fused her recipe with another old-school family favorite: sweet, sugary poppy-seed (munn) cookies. But I reduced the sugar ordinarily in the poppy cookies, then replaced fresh onions with dried and eliminated the yeast in the onion cookies to ensure a shatteringly crispy texture. Stored in an airtight container they freeze like a dream, allowing you to stock up for times when nothing but a deep dose of crispy crunchiness will do.