I’m in charge of the ham at Thanksgiving, in that I insist upon including it (in addition to turkey, relax) and totally commandeer all parts of the process. From sourcing to glaze-crafting and baking all the way to “testing” (repeatedly), this is my Thanksgiving creature. I do other stuff, too, but largely ham.

I’m in it for the leftovers. Everyone at the Thanksgiving table will have a slice of the good stuff, but there’s always a ton left over. Sandwiches are great and everything — there are few better uses for day-old cranberry sauce — but the deviled ham made from leftover glazed, spiral-sliced, on-the-bone pig thigh is about as good as ham gets. What’s deviled ham, or as I’ve aptly nicknamed it, “deli rillettes”? Chopped-up ham blended with cream cheese, mustard, mayo, hot sauce, onion and chopped herbs. Top with sliced pickles for a nicely balanced little bite.

Layer this wonderful stuff on toast (or better yet, make a grilled cheese), spread it on crackers and top with cheddar or eat it with a spoon, but don’t just let that ham slowly dry out in the fridge and succumb to tragedy.