When I was growing up, every holiday meal in my house started with pasta. If we were lucky, it was lasagna made with fresh pasta. Or (if we were really lucky!) my father’s famous manicotti, which were somehow both unbelievably light and incredibly decadent. There was something about them that always felt special and celebratory.

The trick to manicotti is to make the crepes as thin as you can and not to overstuff or oversauce them. The idea is to create a balance of the three components: crepe, filling and sauce. This is a great dish for entertaining, but also good for a (slightly ambitious) family dinner. The whole recipe only takes about an hour from start to finish.