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A hearty, tender veal chop on the grill pairs perfectly with earthy, creamy mushroom stroganoff.

Award-winning chefs Greg Denton and Gabrielle Quiñónez Denton are the chef-owners of the much-beloved Ox Restaurant in Portland, Oregon. With a focus on the live-fire and asador cooking traditions of Central and South America, their new cookbook, Around the Fire, is a must-have for grillmasters of any level or walk of life. 

Some people love veal for its flavor and tenderness and the fact that it’s a little less fatty than cuts like a beef rib eye. Others disdain it for being a little less intense in flavor than beef. We like to pair something with it that adds to the meat’s impact without diminishing its delicateness.

Our answer is a stroganoff sauce, a version that is light-bodied, satisfying, and made from scratch. The sauce calls for veal stock, which is delicious when it’s homemade but also something you can buy if in a hurry, as well as shallot and madeira for sweetness and tang. The sauce is intentionally thin, ideal for keeping the dish from becoming too rich (and for potentially serving over some egg noodles). Here it’s made with golden chanterelles, but morels would be a delicious seasonal alternative, and button or shiitake mushrooms also work perfectly well.

Keep in mind that, because of its leanness, veal tends to dry out if overcooked. But if you play your cards right atop the grill, it’s one of the most tender meats you can buy.

Reprinted with permission from Around the Fire