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There are thousands of Southern-food cookbooks, but only one Garden & Gun magazine bent on compiling the best of the best of old and new recipes for its dedicated readership. Whether it’s the classics or the updated hits that drive the modern Southern culinary movement, you’re in for some seriously delicious hospitality. Chicken-fry anything you like, but if it happens to be short ribs, all the better.

At Underbelly in Houston, James Beard Award–winning chef Chris Shepherd and his full-time butcher go to work on an entire cow every single week. Which means they have to find creative uses for each part of the animal — including the ribs, which carry a whole lot of meat. “One day, we had ribs left over,” Shepherd says, “and we said, ‘Let’s just braise and fry these damn things. It’ll be delicious!’” Indeed they were. In a state where diners take chicken-fried steak very seriously, these ribs are a nod to tradition, but with more beef flavor than the customary eye of round. “It’s chicken-fried steak, but it’s also not,” Shepherd says. “When you bite into it, it’s meaty, tender and thick.”

Reprinted with permission from The Southerner’s Cookbook