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These comforting coiled Middle Eastern lamb sausage rolls, known as katmer, will quickly become a staple of your baking repertoire.

Some of the best sweet and savory pastries in the world hail from the Middle East, so join James Beard Award–winning chef-bakers Ana Sortun and Maura Kilpatrick on their journey through Turkey and beyond. Their new cookbook, Soframiz, is packed with the very best, breadiest baked goods this side of the Euphrates.  

In 2014, I visited the farm of my chef friend Musa Dagdeviren outside of Istanbul, where he had recently built five replicas of ancient or antique Turkish wood-burning ovens. We made lamb tail confit katmer, or flatbreads, in one of the ovens, which inspired me to create this recipe. This style of katmer resembles the Chinese scallion pancake, using yufka, a non-yeasted dough made with milk, egg, and vinegar, which keep the dough tender. The yufka is rolled out like a tortilla and filled with a spreadable lamb sausage flavored with cumin and dried spearmint. It’s then shaped into a rope, spiraled like a serpentine, and rolled out before cooking.

These are best served hot, cut into wedges with a dollop of pistachio yogurt for a very rich breakfast, brunch, or lunch.

Cook’s Note: Katmer can be filled, coiled, and then frozen on a baking sheet. They will take about 20 minutes to thaw, and then you can roll them out to flatten them before cooking as instructed above. If you have leftovers, these cooked katmer reheat beautifully in a toaster oven or conventional oven or on a cast-iron griddle.

Reprinted with permission from Soframiz