Don’t call Brooklyn chef Dale Talde’s food “Asian-fusions,” because it’s not. It’s Asian-American, an homage to growing up Filipino (and proud) in a land of nuggets, breakfast sandwiches and diner feasts. In his new cookbook, Talde takes a classic, twists it up and flips it on its ass, frankly, but this short rib recipe’s a family classic.

Welcome to Filipino Christmas. There are screaming babies on your left, cases of Miller High Life on your right and approximately 4,000 people in the living room of whatever aunt, cousin or sort-of cousin was willing to host that year. When I was a kid, I’d wait all year for this. It was my opportunity to eat my aunt Catalina’s kare-kare.

Not that the other food wasn’t dope, too. There was Mom’s wonton soup and her Christmas ham, lacquered with caramelized sugar and pineapple juice. Someone always brought arroz valenciana, a Filipino version of paella, yellow from turmeric rather than saffron and made with sticky rice, Chinese sausage, shrimp and peas. I ate like a beast but always saved room for several servings of kare-kare, a classic Filipino stew rich with peanuts and funky from shrimp paste. Aunt Catalina reserved the stew for Christmastime, because it took a long time to make. She used oxtail and innards. I rock short ribs. The stew’s so rich that you might need some charred cabbage, eggplant and long beans to go with it.

Reprinted with permission from Asian-American