No food library is complete without a truly great fish cookbook. Thankfully, chef Ben Pollinger’s latest masterpiece, School of Fish, teaches the skills you need to from “occasional salmon maker” to confident seafood cook.

This dish reminds me of the old-style haute cuisine recipes that fascinated me when I was beginning my culinary training, dishes in which cooked fish was made to mimic the look of a live whole fish, decorated with “scales” made of pastry or cucumber slices. Here’s a simplified, contemporary version decorated with sliced potato. It’s not hard to do, and it brings a little restaurant elegance to your dinner table. You can cook the chard ahead and reheat it. Or preheat the oven and get the fish all ready, start the chard, then put the fish in the oven. The dorade and the chard will be ready at the same time.

Reprinted with permission from School Of Fish