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This squash as a built-in bowl for any sort of stuffing.

While Andrew Carmellini is renowned for his Italian cuisine, his second cookbook, American Flavor, focuses on the diversity of cuisine across the country. From the barbecue in his native Cleveland to the comfort food at his family’s dinner table, American Flavor is a good reminder to always expand your repertoire. Here’s a vegetarian recipe, in Carmellini’s own words.

In my parents’ house, my mom is the serious cook: she clips recipes, she keeps files, she annotates and modifies and plans menus. My dad doesn’t cook much, but when he does, it’s usually something simple and really good. He doesn’t work from recipes. When something’s in season and tasting really good and he wants to eat it, he always knows exactly what to do to make it delicious, so he kicks my mom out of the kitchen. This is a classic Paul Carmellini fall dish: something he makes every year when the butternut squash is fat and sweet. My dad usually serves this as a side dish with roast pork or chicken, but it’s so filling on its own that a half squash per person, with a little bit of radicchio salad to balance the sweetness out, makes a perfect vegetarian meal. If you don’t see butternut squash in your local market, acorn squash will work just as well.

Reprinted with permission from American Flavor