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Famed French chef Albert Roux once told me that he only cooked chickens that looked happy, as they made the tastiest meat. Here in Andalusia, Spain, located an hour northwest of Seville, I’m looking at a group of black pigs that certainly appear as though they’re having a good time. They’re wandering around a dehesa,…
By Rupert Parker
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Anywhere that makes a sheep's milk cheese deliberately containing thousands of live maggots is enough to make me hop on a plane in the hope of a tasting. Unfortunately, casu marzu or formaggio marcio, literally “rotten cheese” in Italian, has been outlawed by the hygiene police, and the only way to get it is to…
By Rupert Parker
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The word "gastronomy" comes from the ancient Greek word for "belly" and, indeed, locals still cook meat in a round terra-cotta pot known as a gastra. I’m reminded of this fact by our cooking-class tutor, Maria, chef-proprietor of Klimataria restaurant in Athens, Greece, as she shows me the huge steel versions she uses to cook…
By Rupert Parker
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