Sardines, Sherry, Ridiculously Good Ham: 8 Spots For Great Food In Seville, Spain
Jamón ibérico. Gazpacho. Fried sardines. And as much manzanilla sherry as you can swill. Southern Spain knows how to eat and drink like it's their job, and no one does it better than the idyllic town of Seville. From old-school establishments where you eat off sherry barrels to hip restaurants that serve slow-food salads from their garden, here are eight must-try spots to eat at after you visit the Alcazar.
1. Dúo Tapas
At this trendy spot in the bustling Alameda de la Hércules area, meet salmorejo, gazpacho's thicker cousin and one of the signature foods of Southern Spain (pro tip: dip thick bread in it, early and often). Dúo Tapas makes a daily version, and on two occasions we tried a new-school green variety with hard-boiled egg and arugula as well as a delicious traditional style with a topper of hard-boiled egg and jamón ibérico. Also, go for the salsa verde chicken (like a curry with squash and pollo) and the green salad with a huge medallion of fried goat cheese. Sit on the big patio and watch the waiters dash across the street into the kitchen. Calle Calatrava 10, 955-23-85-72
2. Dos de Mayo
Traditional tapas bars are loud and rowdy places, and this spot defines the category. Locals crowd here at lunchtime (around 1:30 p.m.), standing around the tiny interior and spilling out into the patio over small plates and a beer or two. Shout your order at the bartender and he'll quickly throw the dishes at you over the heads of other patrons (in the most friendly way possible, of course). Ask for the homemade paella, a rarity in this part of Spain. Plaza de la Gavidia 6, 954-90-86-47
3. Eslava
Be prepared to wait at the tapas bar (not the more expensive restaurant next door), because locals know to head here for a cozy, flawless dinner. We like that they serve pickled white beans with the traditional olives when you sit down. The next move is to order from the cheap, but good, wine list. Go for the excellent fried sardines and light gazpacho as well as more substantial tapas like honey pork ribs, and don't skip desserts like the cigarrillo para Becquer, a rolled-up pastry named after Seville's most famous poet. Calle Eslava 3, 954-90-65-68, espacioeslava.com
4. Heladeria La Fiorentina
Artisanal ice cream meets the flavors of southern Spain at this longtime city favorite. Floral orange blossoms, for example, make a delightful cream, and icy versions of traditional Sevillian cakes like dulce de torrijas (egg bread soaked in wine, cinnamon and orange, fried and coated in honey) frequent the menu too. Expect a grainier texture than with Italian gelato, but the local flavors make up for it. Sit outside on the patio and enjoy your treat. Calle Zaragoza 16, 954-22-15-50, heladerialafiorentina.com
5. ConTenedor
Warning: The duck will haunt your dreams. The modern, slow-food spot serves the perfectly tender thigh and leg with flavorful crispy rice that both crunches and melts in your mouth. The hip restaurant uses organic, local ingredients, many from its extensive garden out back. Note that you won't find tapas here but substantial, somewhat pricier entrées and a solid wine list; also keep in mind that the main street is under serious construction, so look out for the restaurant's understated sign and big windows or risk missing it altogether. Calle San Luis 50, 954-91-63-33, contenedorcultural.com
6. Mercado de Feria
Wind your way through the city's narrow streets to find one of the oldest markets in the city, next to the Omnium Sanctorum church on Feria Street. Sure, there are prepared goods like pastries at Mama Ines bakery, but the best parts are the produce and meat stands, with farmers straight out of the countryside. Strike up a conversation with one of the weatherworn fishermen about the piles of beautiful sardines at his stand, then grab lunch at the market's bar, La Cantina. Calle Feria
7. El Rinconcillo
You'll find this hole-in-the-wall tapas bar (the building dates back to 1670) in almost every touristy guide to the city, but that doesn't mean it should be missed. Located near La Macarena Church, it has been in the same family for seven generations and serves an impressive range of sherries. Stand in the bustling space and admire the bottles of wine and sherry lining the walls while you sip a glass; use the upright sherry casks as a table for your nibbles of cheese and jamón. Pro tip: Start the night here with those few bites and then move on to another place for a full dinner. Calle Gerona 40, 954-22-31-83, en.elrinconcillo.es
8. Taberna Los Coloniales
Southern Spain specializes in quite a few dishes that you won't find elsewhere in the country, let alone the world. Beyond salmorejo, we advise eating as much berenjenas fritas con miel (fried eggplant with honey) as possible, and this is the place to do it. Traditional tapas like this one come in hefty sizes here and with a cheap price tag. Head to the older location, on Plaza del Cristo de Burgos, and be sure to order the chicken with almond sauce as well. Plaza del Cristo de Burgos 19, 954-50-11-37, tabernacoloniales.es
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