The Ultimate Guide To Baltimore's Dynamic Belvedere Square Market

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Kathy Wielech Patterson, a life-long Baltimorean and avid eater, blogs at Minxeats.com. She's the co-author of the restaurant guide,  Food Lovers' Guide to Baltimore , and the cookbook,  Baltimore Chef's Table , both written with her husband, Neal.

Baltimore has long been known for its public markets, and the city has the oldest continually running market system in the U.S. The "world famous" Lexington Market on the west side of downtown has been in its current location since 1782, and five other markets are still in operation in other parts of the city. Most still offer raw ingredients like fresh poultry and vegetables, but more and more, the market stalls are filled with ready-to-eat food purveyors specializing in deli sandwiches, Asian stir-fries and plenty of deep-fried...everything.

In 1986, the privately owned Belvedere Square Market opened in Govans – a neighborhood just below the county line — and was much like the City's public markets: a place to get fresh produce, meats and seafood. Within a handful of years, however, rents skyrocketed and businesses fled Belvedere Square for less-pricey digs elsewhere. In what seemed like no time at all, the market, once bustling with activity, fell quiet. Only a handful of the original restaurants and shops remained. Then, after a few fallow years, a new management team took over, bringing in merchants with more upscale goods. New York butcher Ceriello Fine Foods took over a sizable chunk, and Grand Cru wine bar moved into a space next door. Atwater's Bakery assumed a spot on the opposite end, and soon the outdoor tables were once again full of patrons chatting over sandwiches and coffee.