“I was starting to be known as the meat guy,” admits British cookbook author and food television presenter Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall as we share a booth at the Spotted Pig in New York’s West Village. In the U.K., Hugh is famous for his River Cottage television series — where he cooks from his Devon headquarters (the cottage) while instilling a “back to basics” ethic. He was in town to cook a whole bunch of vegetables.