4. Crispy Rice Cakes at Tongin Market

Ddukbokki is a staple in the Korean diet, with most of them arriving slathered in a crimson — and sometimes overtly sweet — gochujang sauce. But what I found at the stalls in the Tongin Market was vastly different. First, the rice cakes were about a third the usual size — more like penne pasta. And instead of chewy, the finger-sized snacks are rubbed with gochugaru (Korean chili powder) garlic and sugar before being dropped into a crackling hot wok. After a few minutes, the woman running the stand scooped me cups worth and handed me a toothpick, the preferred method for eating rice cakes from the market stalls.