2. Blood Sausage at Kwang Jang Market

While researching the guidebook, I took a shine to soondae, even though most of my Korean friends said that all soondae in New York was pretty much bullshit. It’s a mild blood sausage of pork that’s stuffed into a casing with dangmyeon potato noodles, barley and other bits that are best left unsaid. In New York, it’s typically pre-sliced and served warm with a small bowl of salt mixed with gochugaru (Korean chili powder). When combined, the offal bomb pairs really well with a beer or makgeolli — a fizzy rice wine.

At the expansive, and freezing, Kwang Jang Market, I found giant tube steaks cut fresh to order by the friendly women manning the stalls.  The tin foil–lined plate was stacked with a dozen meaty patties, with some funky looking tripe mixed in.