To get to the Noma test kitchen one must walk the mean streets of Christianshavn, a neighborhood in Copenhagen that is as tough as the docks at Sausalito. As in, not very tough at all. It’s a beautifully maintained stretch of former military buildings and more modern apartment complexes, separated by crisscrossing canals.
Noma sits at the end of one of these streets in a converted 18th Century warehouse. The restaurant is located on the ground floor, while the spacious test kitchen is above. It is here where chef René Redzepi goes to work — which he explained in our rapid-fire interview. Yeast was on the mind. Here are some shots of the action at Strandgade 93.