The places the Singapore Tourism Board wanted me to see weren’t all about freezing ice cream with nitrogen and sourcing lamb from the Isle of Man. Instead, the spots touted $2 piles of noodles the size of my head, mountains of durian so powerfully odiforous I nearly died and went to hell, and slingers of barbecued pork jerky, frog porridge, satay and oyster-packed fried omelets too numerous to count. This is the real Singapore food.
I ate white pepper crab and black pepper crab (the difference is…well I’m not going to walk straight into that one), as well as the famed Singaporean chili crab. I had noodles, curries and dumplings of every incarnation imaginable. I had kaya toast and kopi-c — ultra-strong margarine-roasted coffee inexplicably strained through a sock and splashed with sweetened evaporated milk — every morning. Seriously, nobody was able to explain to me why this coffee is strained through a sock. Not a used sock, just a sock.
I only scratched the surface during my brief time in Singapore. But here are the 15 best things I ate over the past week.