Michel Bras T Peeler Set
Peelers usually fall under the category of disposable kitchen tools — break or lose one and it can easily be replaced with a trip to the supermarket or hardware store.
Lay down a Benjamin for one and it's a whole different story.
When culinary legend Michel Bras partnered with Japanese knife maker Kai to produce a line of high-end kitchen tools, the result was the world's most obscenely priced peeler. The $126 gadget swore salvation to professional chefs, home cooks and military personnel on KP duty everywhere.
Sure, it's a step above the competition. Unlike the single-blade peeler that's probably in your kitchen drawer, Bras' gadget comes with four interchangeable stainless steel attachments, each designed for a specific purpose. A thick-gauge blade handles tough root vegetables, a thinner blade peels thinner-skinned produce, and two julienne cutters slice fine and coarse strips of fruit and vegetable flesh.
But for its many functions, is it ultimately worth the price?
Positive (+)
There is no denying that this is the sexiest peeler you'll ever own. The set arrives in an austere gray box with delicate Japanese wrapping paper, making unpacking an experience in itself. The tool is also surprisingly light, weighing just over three ounces. Blades are easy to install and sharp, and each performs as promised: the thick blade shaved clean through a wedge of parmesan, the thin blade peeled potatoes while sparing the flesh, and the julienne blades cut strands of apple and zucchini for summer salads. The nonslip handle is also a welcome detail.
Negative (-)
I'd be remiss not to reiterate the sticker shock that comes with purchasing this peeler. For a long-term investment, there's no telling how long the blades will last before submitting to wear and tear; nor is there an option for purchasing replacements in the event that a blade goes missing. In terms of performance, one glaring drawback is that it's not a one-size-fits-all tool—the long handle is uncomfortable for smaller hands to grip.
Verdict:
According to braskai.net, this tool makes a pretentious promise "to reveal the diverse expressions of an ingredient." In layman's terms: you can peel a hell of a lot of different fruits and vegetables with it. While it makes good on that pledge, only the serious home chef (with deep pockets) should consider splurging. It's an indulgence, but the julienne blades alone will spare you the hassle of setting up a mandoline or cutting perfect batons with a knife. As for the rest of us casual cooks, we'll get on just fine with the average peeler. Michel Bras Peeler Set; $100 (sale price), williams-sonoma.com
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