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I still don’t know how to properly pronounce Sydney’s Momofuku Seiōbo (the restaurant’s wildly inventive British chef Ben Greeno was no help when asked). But there is no mistaking that this is a David Chang restaurant—the shiny counter overlooks an even shinier kitchen bankrolled by the massive Star casino. It’s neither Ssäm nor Ko, Chang’s two stellar NYC anchors. It’s Seiōbo. Or however you pronounce it. On my recent trip to Australia, I spent the morning with Greeno and staff.