This Vintage Ice Cream Flavor Depended On Whale Poop (Yes, Really)

Listen. This article is informational, not promotional. Ambergris is a rare product of a sperm whale's digestive tract — so, while it is passed in the same manner as feces, it's not technically the same thing. This substance is potent and contains notes described as earthy and floral, somewhat akin to vanilla. However, the New York Times — all the way back in 1895 — declared it "an odor almost indescribable" (per the New York Times).

Ambergris became a mainstay in perfumes of the past, as a little could go a very long way, and its potency helped with the longevity of the scent. Perhaps unexpectedly, it also featured culinarily in ice creams. In a memoir of Lady Ann Fanshawe dating back to the mid-1660s, a recipe is found for so-called icy cream. The instructions say to flavor the iced cream with orange blossom water, mace (the spice, not the weapon), and ambergris. When food historian Ivan Day recreated this recipe for an audience, it was described as creamy and delicious (via Food History Jottings).

However, other culinary fanatics have tried ambergris ice cream, and it's received some mixed reviews. It, apparently, starts out quite tasty and rich, but quickly reveals a distinctly marine aftertaste. Some (not all!) tasters can pick up on fecal notes, but this is apparently not so obvious, especially in smaller amounts. Still, it remains one of the most expensive substances in the culinary world, right up there with Kopi Luwak (the priciest coffee around), a coffee-making method that also relies on animal excrement.

Ambergris has never been a widely available product — for a number of reasons. Firstly, only one in 1,000 sperm whales produces it, and even then, it takes years to actually reach a state of use, and you need a lot of luck as well as a keen eye to find it. It has largely been lost to the list of old-school ice cream flavors that are no longer with us. Aside from its high price tag and general scarcity, times and legalities have simply changed. Perfumes now use synthetic compounds to ensure longer wear, and the use or sale of any sperm whale product has been outlawed in the United States for a number of years — even though the FDA has stated it's generally safe to consume.

If you're still looking to get a fishy dimension to your ice cream, furikake offers a subtle umami upgrade and won't break the bank. And if you're committed to trying this rarity for yourself, you'll have more luck across the pond. Throughout Europe, ambergris can be found and legally sold. While whales are a protected species and therefore their byproducts are firmly regulated, ambergris is considered a waste product, and thus doesn't need special approval to sell or use. It's a slightly backhanded loophole that such an expensive commodity is free of legalities, given that it is, well, pooped out, but that's perhaps also the benefit earned for the brave souls who deal with the substance hands-on.