Anthony Bourdain Only Approved Of One Deep-Dish Pizza In Chicago

Few food feuds incite as much heated debate as that of New York versus Chicago-style pizza, and while the Windy City actually boasts two distinct styles (deep dish and tavern), it is the former that usually draws the most ire from thin-crust devotees. Critics say it's too saucy, too dense, and too heavy — more akin to a casserole than a traditional pie. One such naysayer was someone known for having an adventurous palate and deeply conviction-driven opinions: Anthony Bourdain. However, the late chef was not above being proven wrong, and when it came to deep dish, he did make one exception.

On an episode of "No Reservations," Bourdain visited Burt's Place, a legendary restaurant in a suburb of Chicago called Morton Grove, to sample its deep dish, which came highly recommended by his friend. While the slice Bourdain — who described himself in the episode as "a New Yorker with a deep cultural aversion to pizza that is not New York pizza" (via YouTube) — was served was no hand-held affair, the chef dug in with a fork and knife and admitted: "Yeah, that's really nice. I get it ... I really understand it now."

So what made Burt's pizza stand out among other deep-dish giants? The late founder, Burt Katz, was famous for his signature caramelized cheese crust. Unlike versions that can be doughy or soggy, Burt's focused on a crisp, well-done exterior. Once loaded with the fresh veggies that topped Bourdain's slice, the combination was clearly delicious enough to win over even the most cynical New Yorker.

Burt Katz didn't actually start out at Burt's Place; rather, his legendary caramelized crust was the result of a decades-long evolution. Katz began his journey as a pizza maker at The Inferno in the early 1960s before co-founding Gulliver's. However, it was at Pequod's, which he opened in the early 1970s, where he truly refined his gastronomic hallmark: a crust crafted by banking a layer of cheese directly against the side of the pan.

This technique creates a frico-like effect, causing the dairy to caramelize against the seasoned cast iron as it bakes. Much like the pies later served at Burt's Place, these crusts are so deeply caramelized they appear charred — and, as such, to the uninitiated, the style is occasionally mistaken for simply burnt. However, fans of this distinctive finish are quick to defend the deeply savory crunch of the blackened edge.

While the crust was impressive enough to win over Anthony Bourdain, those who aren't quite ready to buy into the density of Chicago deep dish might enjoy the similar-but-lighter Detroit style, which also features a crisp and salty cheese border. If all else fails, there are plenty of different pizza types in the U.S. to try — but few can claim to have changed Bourdain's mind the way Katz's creation did.