New York City chef Camille Becerra ran the beloved restaurant Paloma in Greenpoint before a devastating fire closed it in 2008. After taking some time off, working as a writer and recipe developer, she returns as chef at Navy, a cozy, seafood-focused maritime canteen in Soho. While early dishes like crispy gnocci and a pork chop with pickled goji berries will likely rotate in and out with the change of the seasons, there is one dish that is already in what we’d call the Spreadable Things Hall of Fame. Uni butter. Yes, Ms. Becerra went there. And we have the recipe to share with you (though you'll have to find the uni, or sea urchin, yourself; we'd suggest trying Japanese markets if there's one in your area, or Asian grocers with a fresh seafood section).

“Uni has such a beautiful balance of sweet and briny notes which makes it great to cook with,” says the chef. “Many chefs have applied a butter-uni sauce to pasta, but I prefer to spread it thin on toast.” This toast was inspired by an April Bloomfield dish — the John Dory chef makes an oyster pan roast served with a side of uni butter spread on a thin baguette. “I thought it was so yum, it should be its star on a dish,” says Becerra, tipping her toque.