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Schnitzel gets the vegetarian treatment.

Eggplants lend themselves to all manner of flavors and textures, and just to prove it, here they are “schnitzeled” — coated and fried in a delicate mix of breadcrumbs, cheese and herbs. Sumac is available at Middle Eastern food stores. It’s a bright red spice ground from dried berries and it has a tangy lemon flavor. If you can’t get hold of it, just double the lemon zest instead.