This shellfish stew offers a nice bit of flexibility, depending on what’s in season around town and what your fishmonger might have on special. If local mussels haven’t come into season yet, double up the clams—or, just as easily, skip the clams and use all mussels. The shrimp are optional, and we urge you to include them only if you can find—and afford—wild-caught British Columbia or West Coast spot prawns, or U.S.-farmed freshwater prawns.

Carefully sourcing your shellfish can be tedious, but it has critical importance. Our locally farmed calms and mussels are highly sustainable, but most farmed shrimp are raised in poor conditions that contribute to regional drought and the spread of disease to wild shrimp populations.

Serve the stew with a simple green salad and good, rusty bred for mopping up the juices.