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Craving a meaty pasta dish? Welcome this sausage sauce into your life.

Your cookbook inventory is not complete without a volume or two from best-selling cookbook author and food writer Nancy Harmon Jenkins. The only thing better? A collection of pasta recipes cowritten with her daughter, Sara Jenkins, chef at NYC’s East Village trattoria Porsena. Pick up your pasta pot and ready the extra-virgin olive oil: You know exactly what’s for dinner tonight.  

Most commonly, an ancient type of wheat called spelt is called farro in Italy. In fact, a closely related rare wheat, in English “emmer,” is correctly the botanical equivalent of farro. (Like the history of pasta, the untangling of grain types is a minefield.) Spelt was used long before our modern-day wheat because it was easy to grow in almost every region of Italy. But it is in Tuscany and Umbria that it is still used today, in modest quantities, in the making of both bread and pasta (and risotto-type dishes). The flavor of both pasta and bread is different, with a wholemeal characteristic that makes it less delicate and nuttier than ordinary wheat pasta. Combining spelt pasta with luganega, a tasty sausage originating from Greece, seems to be ideal.

Alternatives: Obviously the sauce would go with any spaghetti or other long pasta, or indeed with penne. If you leave the sausage in larger chunks, the sauce would be good served with polenta. Luganega sausages are available from good butchers or delicatessens.

Reprinted with permission from The Four Season of Pasta