This week Esquire published Eat Like A Man: The Only Cookbook A Man Will Ever Need. Try out this recipe from Dave Pasternack, the author and Executive Chef at NYC’s ESCA.

I’ve been a fisherman my whole life—started with my father when I was about five, in Jamaica Bay, Brooklyn, and I still catch some of what’s served at Esca. But I also get everything from everywhere: Alaskan salmon, abalone from British Columbia, John Dory from New Zealand. I don’t have a preconceived notion of what I’m going to do with each fish; the preparation and ingredients are based on the state the fish is in—the seasonal differences, which affect fishing just as much as farming.

Take lobster: People like it in the summer, but it’s actually better during the winter, when colder water and harder shells mean more meat for your money. In this dish, I take the small one-pounders, called “chicks,” and turn them into a bigger meal. Like all peasant-style cooking, this dish ekes the most out of every expensive ingredient, like draining the cooking water from the lobster claws to add to the sauce and sautéing the tails in the shells to pull out every ounce of flavor. I’ve had this dish on my menu since I opened the restaurant. It’ll get you a lot of love for very little cooking time.