In Mexico, mezcal is traditionally served in small snifters or Jicaras — small, ornately carved cups made of gourd. It’s usually accompanied by a wedge of lime or orange and sal de gusano, a strangely addictive mix of salt, chili and dried larvae. It sounds strange and kind of gross, but it really does liven the palate between sips.

While I encourage you to sip your heart out, the entire category is being driven by its use in cocktails, especially in New York, where this mezcal revolution began. Sipping a great mezcal is a beautiful thing, but now almost every cocktail menu at every decent cocktail bar has at least one mezcal drink proudly on it. Mixologist Joaquin Simo has this little doozy for your pleasure at the award-winning Death & Company in New York’s East Village.

Naren Young is a New York City-based mixologist and the man behind forkandshaker.com.