In an Italian-American kitchen, spring comes not with a whimper, but with approximately five pounds of cured meat. Italian meat pie is an Easter tradition, and like all good holiday institutions, this one is studded with salumi and cheeses. The manliest quiche in the world, the pie is called pizzagaina by some, pizza rustica by others and delicioso by all. It has a crust so simple it basically prepares itself, and can easily be doubled to feed a crowd. Better still, the pie tastes even better a day or two after it’s baked, making it the ultimate do-ahead dish. Bravissimo.