This recipe is part of Crispianity: a column devoted to all foods crispy and crunchy, two of the most underappreciated attributes of a great dish. Author Adeena Sussman is a food writer and recipe developer, pairing here with her photographer friend Evan Sung. Sussman’s most recent cookbook, coauthored with Lee Brian Schrager, is America’s Best Breakfasts: Favorite Local Recipes From Coast to Coast.

My benchmark onion ring belongs to chef Josh Capon; he very generously gifted it to Chrissy Teigen for use in Cravings, the cookbook I coauthored with Chrissy this year. While there are many secrets to a perfect onion ring, let’s start with the onion itself: I’ve found that firm, oversized Vidalias, or other sweet varieties, stand up best to the thick batter, yet still cook to melting perfection within their crispy casing.

In his version, chef Capon pulls out all the stops: cornstarch for powdery crunch, a little leavening agent and not one, but two types of alcohol for a fizzy, flavorful finish. I took that recipe and tweaked it, swapping in potato starch for cornstarch, upping the amount of fizzy beer in lieu of some wine and amping up the spices. The result is onion rings so good you’ll like them as much at room temperature as you will right out of the fryer. The usual rules of Crispianity apply: Make sure your oil is clean, let it return to temperature between batches, and don’t move your product around in the fryer; let it tread oil and do its thing!