This recipe is part of Crispianity: a column devoted to all foods crispy and crunchy, two of the most underappreciated attributes of a great dish. Author Adeena Sussman is a food writer and recipe developer, pairing here with a friend, photographer Evan Sung. Sussman’s most recent cookbook, coauthored with Lee Brian Schrager, is Fried and True: More Than 50 Recipes for America’s Best Fried Chicken and Sides.

The combination of crispy food and cold beer is hard to beat, but consider getting your salty, crunchy fix from a slightly more exotic source: the Israeli kitchen. Moroccan cigars, or sigariyot, as they’re called in Israel, are a staple at mizrahi (North African) eateries and beyond. When done right, they’re world-beatingly good; the combination of crispy shell and tender, flavorful filling is irresistible, and not as hard to pull off as you’d imagine. In Israel you can buy a special frozen dough — something in between a wonton wrapper and puff pastry — in the supermarket freezer.

Stateside the way to go is filo (or phyllo), which fries up fresh, crisp and golden. The filling has that great combination of warm spices and heat, which complement the ground lamb perfectly (beef works perfectly fine if that’s all you’ve got). Sumac, the star ingredient in the yogurt dipping sauce, is a tart element that many Westerners are discovering for the first time but that’s been a staple in the Middle East since Biblical times.