There is now a San Francisco fan base for this pie. I tested and tweaked the recipe given to us by the folks at Oh my! Pocket Pies, in Houston, Texas, producing multiple batches that I shared with friends. The response was amazing: these pies got the loudest cheers of any pie in this book. I heard about how many pies were scarfed at one sitting, and of wives hiding the pies from their husbands.

My own marriage was tested when, in a new-baby fog, I put a tray of these pies in the oven, fell asleep on the couch and burned a batch. Whoops. This mistake is invoked every time I put a pie in the oven. So keep your eyes on these pies! I encourage you to make extra: not only are they delicious, but the finished pies freeze beautifully. For an even greater treat, dip them into sour cream or pico de gallo. They can also be fried.

Use a batch of our cornmeal crust dough for this recipe.