Food Road Trip: Sayulita, Mexico

Recently I had the chance to travel to Riviera Nayarit, the 100 miles of coast from Puerto Vallarta to Playa Novilleros on Mexico’s Pacific coast. I attended the 17^th Annual Festival Gourmet, sipped really good mezcal at a polo field and sort of didn’t ever fear for my safety. I skipped the resorts requiring neon wristbands and avoided running into any Los Zetas death squads or other narco-traffickers Americans tend to associate with a large percentage of the country’s 112 million. Hey Americans: Stop doing that.

I was also fortunate enough to visit a sleepy surf town called Sayulita, a mostly American and European ex-pat community living a boho-meets-Baja lifestyle that inspired instant jealously. Food is oftentimes the focus when livin' la vida Mexicana, with Sayulita’s Friday morning farmer's market serving as the town’s weekly Slow Foods–like meet-up. Here’s a tour of the farmer’s market and some of the surrounding food landmarks.

Food Road Trip: Sayulita, Mexico

The Mercado del Pueblo

The Mercado del Pueblo is open every Friday running from November through April. (The season is opposite of the United States due to humidity and soaking rains in the summer.) Lina Weissman, a California native and Sayulita resident for the past seven years, has served as the market’s chief curator since it opened three seasons ago.

The Mercado del Pueblo

Since last season, there has been a waiting list for a spot. According to Weissman, sellers must meet three requirements: natural, organic and local. “You have to grow your own things, make your own things and be within an hour of the market,” she says. “A lot of people have amazing stuff, but they can’t sell it. We’re not an imported market.”

The Mercado del Pueblo

While we chatted, a Mexican man approached to see if he could sell his homemade ice cream. Weissman became excited, though after speaking to him she appeared slightly skeptical that he would fit the requirements to get a spot on the waiting list—which has reached as many as 15 people.

The Mercado del Pueblo

As I walked the market in a beating sun that made it feel like 115, sellers—both Mexican and not—were peddling their goods under umbrellas. Local produce like garlic and tomatoes were placed next to flowers, line-caught red snapper, oysters and queso panela.

The Mercado del Pueblo

A local band played. Shoes are not required at this market.

Paella

Robert Bergeron moved from Seattle with his wife and sells homemade pans of paella valenciana using a recipe that includes Spanish Matiz paella rice, free-range chicken, organic broth, sweet red peppers and green beans. He even caters, which can mean big business during the “wedding season” in November and December. Visit El Paellero for details.

The Mercado del Pueblo

Fresh fruit juices taste great in 115-degree heat. It felt like that for a pasty NYC kid at least.

The Mercado del Pueblo

An old man attempted to sell me medicinal herbs, which he assured would improve vitality. Who is he to judge! Also, another special herb was offered, which we politely declined.

Taco Lady

After leaving the farmer’s market I was pointed the way of Naty, a descendant of Sayulita’s founding La Cruz family. She started selling tacos off the town square a number of years ago, beginning with 1-2 varieties and now offering over 8—steak, fish, chicken mole, guacamole.

Taco Lady

I found myself in the wake of a little league baseball team, so only the chicken was available. It was very, very good—sweet and rich, wrapped in a double-stack of hour-old tortillas. Other popular taco spots include Tacos El Ivan, Tacos and Beer and La Fiesta. This blog seems to know what they are talking about.

Tortilla Factory

This is what a tortilla factory looks like in Mexico. How hot is a tortilla factory in Mexico? Put on your warmest winter jacket—the one you sweat in after 5 minutes indoors. Now head into your bathroom and turn on the shower. Run it hot for 15 minutes. Now get on the floor and do sit-ups. Uncomfortable. And boy were the chips amazingly greasy.

La Playa

This is what the beach looks like. I could have stayed for a year.

Coconuts

And this guy and his fresh coconuts! It does not get better.

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