This recipe is part of Crispianity: a column devoted to all foods crispy and crunchy, two of the most underappreciated attributes of a great dish. Author Adeena Sussman is a food writer and recipe developer, pairing here with a friend, photographer Evan Sung. Sussman’s most recent cookbook, co-authored with Lee Brian Schrager, is Fried and True: More Than 50 Recipes for America’s Best Fried Chicken and Sides.

I created the recipe for these crispy, spicy, saucy wings by taking inspiration from two chefs whose recipes appear in Fried and True, the fried-chicken book I co-authored with Lee Brian Schrager. Philly chef Michael Solomonov — who serves deeply crunchy, lightly lacquered Korean-style fried chicken at Federal Donuts — coats his chicken in rice batter before double-frying and saucing in a mix of Asian condiments. At his eponymous Brooklyn restaurant, Dale Talde dredges his kung pao chicken wings in a dry rice-flour coating and also fries twice, which keeps the center tender and perfectly cooked while bringing the exterior to the optimum level of crunch. I tweaked Solomonov’s wet batter and sauced in my own coating using sweet, salty, tangy and spicy elements.

I love Chinkiang vinegar, a Chinese variety made with glutinous rice that adds a sweet, acidic, smoky note to whatever recipe it graces. Pro tip: You can get the first fry done first, let the wings cool, and then get the wings back into the hot oil for the second, higher-temperature finish just before saucing and serving.