“It’s like I am a new bornbaby and have never worked in a kitchen I my entire life,” says David Kinch, Negroni in hand, as we share a booth in the ancient backroom at Keen’s Steakhouse in Midtown Manhattan. We’re talking about the food of Japan, a topic that excites the eccentric chef-owner of Manresa in Los Gatos, California. We get to talking about New York City in the ’80s…