Sure, Bryan Voltaggio serves simple dishes like roast chicken at some of his six restaurants in the Mid-Atlantic states, but he’s at his best when he’s playing chef-alchemist. Case in point: this coconut grits with seared scallops and shrimp dish, a play on the Southern staple shrimp ‘n grits that leaves the cheese and butter in the dairy aisle. Instead, Voltaggio cooks the grits and shellfish in coconut oil and uses coconut milk to thicken and flavor the grits — a brilliant twist that will have anyone who’s ever sprinkled grated cheddar over their grits scrambling to try out his techniques. It’s always fun watching a great chef at work in the kitchen, but it’s even more satisfying when he or she drops in a few tips you can use next time you’re making dinner. Watch Mr. Voltaggio and learn.