Ryan Skeen has made quite a name for himself as a champion of charcuterie and delicious things affiliated with animal fat. In 2004, when we were kids, he was my sous-chef at 5 Ninth, and we came up with the pork fry (braised pork belly cut like thick-cut French fries, breaded and fried) after an impassioned discussion about how best to get a swift, clean kick-in-the-face of pork fat from a finger food. It quickly became a favorite, particularly with the staff. Over time, we’ve served pork fries with a ton of different condiments, but I think my favorite is an egg-white aïoli, with a Bone Shot alongside.