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It's like two breakfasts in one. (Photo: Lucy Schaeffer.)

The cooked oatmeal that goes into this batter starts with quick-cooking rolled oats (don’t use old-fashioned or instant!) that are toasted in a bit of butter until they give off an amazing aroma. Toasting is an extra step, but it’s well worth the effort for the alluring, butterscotchy quality that it brings out in the grain. Be sure to add the buttermilk to the oatmeal while the cereal is still quite warm, before it begins to set up into a starchy mass. As for cooking, bake the waffles until they’re deeply browned so that they form a delicately crisp crust that contrasts beautifully with the moist, custardy interior.

Reprinted with permission from Waffles