The ink is nearly dry on Daniel Humm’s signature as the new owner of Eleven Madison Park—one of Manhattan’s most renowned American Nouveau restaurants and, until now, the crown jewel of restaurateur Danny Meyer’s empire. After working six years with general manager Will Guidara and under Meyer’s tutelage, Humm has elevated EMP from a struggling brasserie—at odds with its grand Art Deco architecture—to its current status as a three-Michelin-star dining room competing with the likes of Per Se for New York City’s most monied and meticulous restaurant fans. Read our interview with Humm.
- 3/4 pound (6 cups) applewood chips
- 1 pound (8 cups) charcoal (not briquettes)
- 2 pounds cold butter, diced (1 inch)
Marble Potato Confit
- 160 marble potatoes (about 2 1/3 pounds)
- 8 cups plus 2 tablespoons Smoked Butter
- 2 sprigs thyme
- 3 cloves garlic, crushed but kept whole
- 1 tablespoon chicken stock
- fleur de sel
- 1 1/2 pounds La Ratte fingerling potatoes
- 1 cup cream
- 1/4 cup brown butter
- 1 teaspoon salt
- 1 pound ground pork back fat
- 2 cups canola oil
- 3 shallots, thinly sliced
- 1/2 teaspoon salt
- 2 cups tapioca maltodextrin
- 1/3 cup extra-virgin olive oil
- 3 1/2 tablespoons malt vinegar powder
- 2 1/2 teaspoons salt
- 1 cup mayonnaise
- 1 cup buttermilk
- 2 tablespoons finely sliced chives
- 1 pinch
- 1 1/2 teaspoons salt
- 2 cups baby mâche leaves
- 2 teaspoons Buttermilk Dressing
- 1 1/2 cups, Potato Mousseline
- Marble Potato Confit
- 1/2 cup minced black truffle
- 1/4 cup Pork-Shallot Crumble
- 8 teaspoons Powdered Vinaigrette
For Smoked Butter
- Soak the applewood chips in cold water for 5 to 10 minutes. Line the cooking surface of a large cast-iron skillet with aluminum foil.
- Place the charcoal in the pan and set over high heat until the coals are white-hot. Place the diced butter in an even layer in a set over ice.
- Place the stacked pans onto the top rack of a cold oven. Once the coals are white, drain the applewood chips and place three quarters of them over the coals. Return the cast-iron skillet to the burner until the chips begin to smoke.
- Place the cast-iron skillet in the oven on the lowest rack, as far way as possible from the butter, which should stay as cold as possible during the smoking process. Smoke the butter for 45 minutes, checking the smoke level every so often.
- It may be necessary to add more wood chips. You can expect the butter to soften and even separate around the edges of the pan. As it does so, you can stir it back together with a spatula.
- After 45 minutes, stir all of the smoked butter together and then transfer it to an airtight container or vacuum-seal in a sous vide bag. Keep in the refrigerator for 2 to 3 days.
For Marble Potato Confit
- Preheat the oven to 275°F. Place the unpeeled potatoes in a baking dish with the 8 cups Smoked Butter, thyme, and garlic and cover with aluminum foil.
- Roast the potatoes in the oven for 1 hour and 30 minutes. Remove from the oven and cool the potatoes to room temperature in the Butter. Once cool, strain, reserving the Butter.
- Peel the potatoes with a paring knife and return them to the strained Butter, keeping at room temperature until ready to use. Heat the Chicken Stock in a large sauté pan over medium heat. Drain the potatoes and add them to the pan to warm through.
- Add the remaining 2 tablespoons Smoked Butter, tossing to glaze. Drain on paper towels and season with fleur de sel.
For Potato Mousseline
- Peel the potatoes and place them in a medium pot. Cover with cold water. Bring to a simmer over medium heat and cook for 25 to 30 minutes, until tender.
- Drain and pass through a food mill into a large bowl.
- Heat the cream and brown butter in a small saucepan. Just before it begins to simmer, fold it into the potatoes until combined but still loose.
- Working quickly, pass the mixture through a fine-mesh tamis. The potatoes will become gummy if they are cold when passed through the tamis.
- Season with the salt and reserve in a warm place, such as near a warm oven or stove. The puree may be made 1 hour ahead of time.
For Pork-Shallot Crumble
- Combine the ground pork fat with 1/2 cup water in a medium straight-sided pan and simmer over medium-low heat until the water has evaporated, 30 to 40 minutes.
- Drain off half of the rendered pork fat and discard. Return to the stove and continue to crisp the fat until golden brown, about 10 minutes. Strain, reserving the solids, and cool the crisped pork fat on paper towels.
- Once cooled, finely chop the pork fat. Combine the canola oil and shallots in a large straight-sided pan and fry over medium heat, stirring constantly, until the shallots are golden brown, 12 to 15 minutes.
- The oil should reach 265°F. Strain the shallots and drain on paper towels. Cool the shallots to room temperature.
- Once cooled, chop the shallots into small pieces and stir into the crispy pork fat. Season with the salt.
For Powdered Vinaigrette
- Place the tapioca maltodextrin in a food processor and gradually add in the oil.
- Blend in the vinegar powder and season with the salt. Reserve in an airtight container.
For Buttermilk Dressing
- In a small bowl, whisk together the Mayonnaise, buttermilk, chives, and pepper. Season with the salt.
- Place the mâche in a mixing bowl, add the Buttermilk Dressing, and gently toss to coat. Cut a rectangular template (measuring 2 1/2 inches by 6 inches) from a piece of acetate.
- Place the template on a plate, pipe 3 tablespoons of Potato Mousseline in the center, and spread evenly with an offset spatula or knife. Carefully peel off the template.
- Arrange 20 Marble Potatoes on top of the Potato Mousseline. Spoon 1 tablespoon minced black truffle and 1 1/2 teaspoons Pork-Shallot Crumble on top of the Potatoes.
- Finish with 1 teaspoon Powdered Vinaigrette and 8 sprigs of dressed mâche.