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Marcus Samuelsson shares his recipe for traditional Swedish meatballs. (Photo: Mahir Hossein.)

My grandmother Helga was the one who taught me how to cook  — traditional Swedish meatballs before anything else. The meatballs I got for school lunch were always perfectly shaped and just the right size, but never tasted as good as her lumpy, misshapen ones. I serve them at Red Rooster, where they’re the most popular dish on the menu. I’ve cooked all my life, but my meatballs never compared to the ones my grandmother used to make for us.