Didier Corlou, the chef at La Verticale in Hanoi, made summer rolls using a single large shrimp wrapped inside a thin slice of mango in a dramatic presentation. But I love the taste of crab, and I was inspired by the flavor combination of California sushi rolls when inventing this dish. Perilla (or shiso, its Japanese version) can be hard to find outside of Asian markets in major cities, but basil leaves are a fine alternative.

Read Food Republic’s interview with Lauren Shockey.