London's 5 Toughest Tables

For a population more prone to doling out restrained praise than over-the-top plaudits, Londoners are certainly not immune to the powers of restaurant hype. Though locals express their enthusiasm with cool reserve, the clamor for tables at the city's buzzed-about establishments speaks to a level of fanaticism that has turned reservation-making into a humbling game of "sweet-talk the hostess."

Generally, London's most difficult bookings are worth the wait, presenting a payoff of stunning surroundings and off-kilter dishes that are a welcome departure from the Modern British fare that populates most menus. (Think: the redcoat equivalent of the ubiquitous farm-to-table, with a staple venison-haunch option.) And so diners wait and wait, and wait more still, simply to get a taste of what's causing a stir among local bloggers and celebs. Whether by way of luck, a well-greased PR connection, or just plain patience, those who find a seat at one of the following five restaurants can count themselves members of the rarefied collective who can say they were there, among the fennel-pollen-spiked starters and Jay Rayners of the world.

Located in an otherwise drab corner of Fitzrovia (West London's ad-agency land) is Oliver Dabbous's namesake debut venture, which has been going strong since the ballyhoo accompanying its 2012 opening. The initial acclaim gave way to an almost year-long wait for reservations; the fervor has since died down, but not by much. Having cultivated his skills under the tutelage of titans including Heston Blumenthal and Raymond Blanc, Dabbous quickly proved his worth as a culinary force in his own right.

Currently renowned among local gastronomes is Dabbous's staple "coddled egg" starter, featuring yolk infused with touches of smoked butter and whipping cream, topped with a sprinkling of delicate mushrooms, and nested on a bed of hay. The ever-evolving menu showcases the rakish young chef's penchant for marrying off-the-wall concepts (distilling the essence of cigars and rye into a beef tartare, for instance) with a sleek aesthetic, and never at the expense of taste. For all the high style and immaculate composition, however, one of Dabbous's strongest offerings is very simple: some of the best sourdough bread — served warm and in a brown paper bag — and freshly churned butter you'll find in all of London. 39 Whitfield Street, Fitzrovia, WIT 2SF, 44 (0) 20 7323 1544, dabbous.co.uk

This tiny, unassuming sushi restaurant in Clerkenwell is run by the husband-wife team of Toro and Harumi Takahashi, the former of whom spent several years at Nobu London. Serving the highest-grade sushi and sashimi in a setting that lends itself to personal interaction with the chef, Tetsu is consistently booked, opening up its reservation line just twice monthly. 12 Jerusalem Passage, Clerkenwell, EC1V 4JP, 44 (0) 20 3217 0090, sushitetsu.co.uk