Jen Queen Is The World's Newest Mezcalier

Wine has its sommeliers. So, naturally, mezcal has its mezcaliers. As more and more people discover tequila's older, smokier cousin, they'll need someone to help them navigate the growing body of mezcals available on this side of the border. Jen Queen is the latest person certified to do just that. As principal bartender at San Diego's Saltbox, she has long been the go-to gal for tequila. Her love of one Mexican spirit led to another and, eventually, to a comprehensive course in Mexico's first agave distillate. She talks to us about the journey.

What exactly is a mezcalier?

When a spirit has a denomination of origin (like champagne, cognac or tequila), it most likely has a governing body that will be a branch of the government. In the case of mezcal, it's COMERCAM (Consejo Mexicano Regulador de la Calidad del Mezcal). They decided to train students to spread the word on the spirit. Their goal is to train 1,000 students. I'm the 14th person to be certified. Just like a sommelier will teach you how to pair wine with food, how to cook with it, enjoy it, the idea is to do that for mezcal.

So, you have to take a big exam?

For Level 4, the final level, you go out into the field, you identify different agave species to a controller from Mexico City, and you go through each step of production: crushing the agave, cooking it; you even have to build a pit where the agave gets roasted. You learn to run the stills, to test for alcohol content, and there's a written exam at the end.

Why did you want to become a mezcalier?

For the last 10 years, I've been in love with tequila. But the unfortunate truth is that tequila is a monoculture. You can only use one varietal of agave, the tequilana Weber azul — that's it. Tequila blew up as a category, especially in the last 10 years while I've been working with it, and we're now looking at agave shortages. It's something that gives me a bit of fear. With mezcal, there are 27 different agave varietals that are in production right now, and even more wild agaves that can be used.

Do you recall your first big mezcal moment?

The first mezcal I ever had was Del Maguey's Chichicapa and I was so blown away. Ron Cooper, who owns the brand, is this fun, crazy, artistic guy. He's not a producer, he's like a collector. He started just bringing these bottles to the U.S. as gifts to his friends. I remember hearing that story and just really connecting to his love of Mexico and mezcal. When I tasted it, I remember thinking, wow, that's really smoky. It's quite complex in comparison to tequila. And then I wanted to know why.

Can you explain mezcal's growing popularity?

I'm involved in the United States Bartender's Guild and went to this huge conference in Austin where there were something like 300 of us. To break the ice, we each had say what it is we like to drink. And so, one by one, everybody goes around the room and so many of them – I mean, almost all of them – said the drink they really like is mezcal. They put it in classic scotch cocktails, bourbon cocktails, rye cocktails, some gin cocktails – it's incredibly versatile. So, once all the bartenders start drinking it and making cocktails with it, it's inevitably going to filter down to the customer.

Tell me more about the versatility.

There are eight different Mexican states that you can make mezcal in, by law. But it's actually made in 27 states in Mexico. So, something from, say, Michoacán is going to have different weather, different altitude, different soil than something done in Oaxaca. Plus, there's the different varieties. Wine has already taught consumers about terroir, so that's an easy one to relate to. But the soil affects mezcal for 10 years, the time it takes for agave to mature, whereas with wine it's a perennial harvest.

How do you like to take your mezcal?

With mezcal, you kiss it softly. We're looking at something anywhere from 80 to 110 proof or more. So, I take it slowly. Definitely. And usually neat. Right now, I'm loving the Alipús San Baltazar. I also love the Dobadaan from Pierde Almas. And I've always loved Del Maguey. Chichicapa used to be my favorite, but now I go more for the Minero.

If you were to have it in a cocktail, how would you serve it?

I like to make a simple julep. I'll use an aged mezcal with just a little sugar, a bit of mint and crushed ice. A really simple, clean cocktail.

Jen Queen's Mezcal Julep

2 ounces Los Nahuales Añejo Mezcal

1 bar spoon of sugar

6 mint leaves

In a julep or double rocks glass, add leaves and sugar. Lightly press with a muddle to release the oils of the mint. Add the mezcal, fill with crushed ice and gently stir until a frost forms on the outside of the glass. Garnish with a sprig of mint.

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